Cabo Verde Islands

We’ve known the Cabo Verde Islands as the Cape Verde Islands forever—and mainly known them as the place where the storms that become hurricanes start and where planes refuel on the long flight from South Africa to New York.  In 2012 the islands requested that the United Nations change their official name to Cabo Verde—the Portuguese version of Cape Verde. They’re proud of their Portuguese heritage, keeping Portuguese as their official language and building memorials to Portuguese explorers.

They gained their independence from Portugal in 1975 and have since developed what appears to be a well-functioning democracy. This is a developing country—people are very poor, but there’s universal education, trash collection and membership in the World Trade Organization. There are 10 islands in the country, 9 inhabited. Recently, the island of Fogo has been plagued by an erupting volcano and people have been evacuated. Plans are being put in place in case the island must be totally evacuated—a non-trivial task since that island has no airport.

We visited 2 of the other islands. Our first stop was on São Vicente at the main port of Mindelo. This island was depressing. The downtown area is not filled with pretty colonial buildings, the markets are not bustling and our granddaughters have a larger library than the island. Our guide spoke poor English and is currently studying to be an English teacher—3 years to go.

The African (fruit and vegetable) market is in a lovely building (Picture 1), but few people were there at 9:30 in the morning. Fruit is imported, most vegetables are from the other islands, but there’s a bustling herbal business, where the herbs are used for medicinal reasons. The fish market (Picture 2) handles the daily catch, which is mostly tuna. Fish is relatively cheap on the island—tuna is the equivalent of 5 Euros for a kilo (2.2 lbs.) and mackerel is 5 fish for a Euro. They eat very little meat, but lots of fish. While we couldn’t catch it in the picture, they use a can the size of a tuna can, with holes punched in the bottom, to clean the scales from the fish.

The people from this island are known for their music scene and we visited a shop where they make guitars (Picture 3). The ones being made are small guitars, used by groups emulating their musical icon, who died 3 years ago, Cesaria Evora. We also saw 6-, 7-, 10- and 12-string guitars that had been made by hand in this shop.

We traveled up Monte Verde and had some wonderful views of the harbor (Picture 4) and the island itself, which is very arid. Down at sea level, we visited one of the black lava rocks and sand beaches (Picture 5).

Overnight we moved to Santiago Island in the south of the group and docked in the Capital of Cabo Verde, Praia, which translates as “beach”. This island is more affluent and much less depressing. It’s a beautiful island with a checkered past. Slaves departed for Europe and the Americas from Cidade Velha on the island and pirates attacked that town, forcing movement of the capital to its present location on a plateau.

We wandered around town, enjoying the interesting, but dilapidated, colonial buildings. Our first amazing stop was the fruit and vegetable market, which was just the opposite of the one in Mindelo—so busy we could barely walk through it. Picture 6 shows a view across the market. This market is run by the women, most dressed in brightly colored tops with colorful pieces of cloth wrapped around like skirts. Many had frilly aprons—I guess for collecting money—and most had another piece of cloth wrapped around there middle. Picture 7 shows one woman dressed traditionally, walking into the market with her load on her head. They create a “doughnut” from a piece of fabric that rests on their head to make if flat. Most don’t even hold on to whatever is on top of their head. They’re usually carrying other things in their arms—very impressive.

We traveled out to Cidade Velha to visit the old capital, which is now a World Heritage Sight. Picture 8 shows some of the beautiful countryside—deep valleys and mountains, up to 4000 feet. Once in Cidade Velha, we walked down their original “Main Street”, called Rue Banana because it curves like a banana(Picture 9). The street was lined with small stone and brick cottages. Along the way we came across this young woman and her baby (Picture 10). The women seem to always have an extra piece of cloth that becomes baby carrier or the “doughnut” for putting things on top of their head.

We also found this lovely church (Picture 11), which is the oldest church in western Africa—Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Our Lady of the Rosary).

Finally we returned to the main square, which is today a tourist market. 150-350 years ago, however, it was the slave market. Picture 12 shows where slaves were sold and punished. Slaves would stand on the steps, where they were sold. The ring on the post was where they were tied when they were whipped. The metal bars extending from the top were where the slaves were hung for transgressions. It was chilling and depressing to think what went on in this one small place.

We learned 2 interesting things about slavery. First of all, Africans had slaves. Women would weave the fabric bands they use around their waist and for 60 of these they could purchase a slave.  We also learned that after slavery was forbidden, this island had a serious economic downturn because so much of their livelihood depended on the slave trade. When Portugal didn’t rescue them financially, the idea of independence was planted. One has trouble sympathizing with the economic woes of losing the slave trade, but the economics of slavery are interesting….

We did drive up into the mountains and saw some lovely scenery, but gloom and mist made for less than optimum pictures, so we just have memories.

We’re now passing 6 days at sea, avoiding the ebola-infected areas of West Africa. We did have stops in Sudan and Ghana cancelled because of fears. Our next stop is Bom Bom Island in the micro-nation of São Tome and Principe. More then…..